Rick Owens’ Evocative SS24 Collection

di Marta Ongaro
il03/10/2023

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Paris, the city of love, art, and fashion, once again bore witness to a sartorial metamorphosis. Like a dark enchantress returning to delight with his powers, Rick Owens unveiled his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, kickstarting fashion week in the city’s beating heart.

The Palais de Tokyo, Owens’ customary backdrop, was wrapped in tinted fog, bathed in shades of neon pink and yellow, creating an atmosphere that was dreamlike yet spectral. The museum’s outdoor garden became a living stage, with Rick’s “soldiers” poised to reveal their vision.

The “LIDO” collection, as an anthem to audacity, showcased bold and dominant leather silhouettes. Owens, as ever, knows how to surprise: Icelandic artist Björk was his main muse, weaving into the fabric his interpretation of everyday joy. But there was an added twist: demonic forms and black-eyed models who walked the runway, casting an identity that balanced darkness and light.

The summer 2024 season proved to be a journey through stark contrasts. On one hand, we saw sharp—almost devilish—shoulders protruding from motorcycle jackets and exaggerated vests. On the other, silk gowns fluttered in the breeze, offering heeled versions of the previous season’s “footcast” shoes. And amidst this darkness, a ray of light: Owens showcased a brighter side, playing with vibrant hues of red, burgundy, and pink.

But it didn’t end there. The collection offered beautifully tailored gowns, in leather and breathtaking drapes. Owens continues to experiment, and the “devil’s shoulders,” now in a captivating pink, are a testament to his innovative spirit. And then those shoulders… strange, unique, almost alien, adding a touch of the fantastical to the entire collection.

As Paris eagerly awaits the next fashion week, we can only wonder: what will the dark wizard have in store for us next? With Rick Owens, the only certainty is to expect the unexpected. And as always, he will not disappoint.