Ann Demeulemeester plays with the opposites at the Paris Fashion Week. The Fall-Winter 2024-25 collection explores the theme of the double, with fashion as a mirror for the unconscious. Delicacy and roughness, fragility and grit mix in the looks proposed by the Belgian maison, signed by Stefano Gallici. What emerges is a vision challenging labels and embracing the different nuances of a modernity that doesn’t give up its heritage.
The double was one of the main themes of the Nineteenth century culture. Gothic and romantic artists were the first to discover that human beings are manifold creatures. Anticipating Freud and the psychoanalysis, they managed to represent, in art and literature, the often opposite sides inhabiting our subconscious. Galli seems to have done the same for Ann Demeulemeester. Taking over the baton of its founder, who appeared satisfied watching the show with the public.
Delicate silk lingerie peeks out from wide leather coats and jackets, sometimes enriched by voluminous fur. These are the fragilities we all have, but often hide under our armours in order to protect ourselves, without a doubt. But also to treasure our most authentic self, which we don’t share with everyone.
Long flowing dresses are combined with masculine cut garments and gritty leather tight-high boots. A sweet and sensual femininity that coexists with a strong and determinate character. Thick ripped sweaters remind us that every scar and every experience are an added value. In a constant alternation of pastel tones, dark shades and bold colors, such as burgundy or charcoal grey.
Gallici homages Ann Demeulemeester’s history, while also enriching and renovating it. An accurate reflection of a humanity that changes, evolves, but deep down remains true to its multifaceted nature.
